Adorable Amalfi and posh Positano

Another few hours putting up with the madness which is Italian Autostradas and we drove over the mountain into the gorgeous little gem of Amalfi. Of course there are no cars allowed in the streets so we parked on the harbour and found our hotel, hidden away in the covered alleyways, up hundreds of steps.


The garage man went with Jim to retrieve the car and drive it up the narrow street thronging with people, tables, chairs, scooters, etc. The plan was he would then drive up the only street in Amalfi and park the car in the narrow garage under the hotel. All went according to plan until they reached the car and he got into the ......passenger seat! At this point Jim's nerve failed and he took the keys back off him and braved the street himself.



Out in the evening in Amalfi walking round the narrow alleyways, some covered, some open to the distant stars is very atmospheric. When you round a corner you half expect to see a medieval monk walking towards you. We came across a pizzeria in one of the alleys that produced pizzas to make Momma proud.

Amalfi, and the surrounding villages, grow lemons. There are lemon groves everywhere, perched high up on the mountain side, in the most precarious of places, where abseiling seems to be the only mode of transport. They then make numerous lemon products including the lovely limoncello.

We went on what was described on the tourist map as a stroll, on pathways up to the villages above. Several thousand steps and several hundred feet higher we reached the first village, a stroll? In places ropes and crampons would have helped. Still the views were amazing. After keeping a local shopkeeper entertained over an espresso we eventually found our way back to Amalfi. The 'stroll' had taken nigh on four hours.






After spending thirty minutes in an Italian post office, queueing to post a birthday card to Jim's mum, we will never complain about English Post offices and their queues again. They have a numbered system and separate queues for different functions. On entering we duly took our number for the letter queue and were pleased to see just three others before us. The look on the faces of those waiting, leaning against the wall, lolling on the seats, nipping outside for a cigarette, should have told us something. It took the man in front of us ten minutes to have a letter sent, by what appeared to be registered post. There were only two grumpy men serving and, at one point, 15 people waiting. Others kept coming in, and with a resigned look on their face, settled in for the duration, or disappeared, never to be seen again! The shelves behind the two blokes were stacked up precariously with all sorts of forms and each time a new customer was served they had to keep getting up and sorting through the shelves for the correct piece of paper, obviously having no idea where it was in their 'filing' system. There was not a computer in sight, well I fib a little, each man had, what appeared to be an old BBC on which he checked the cost of letters, parcels, etc. By the time we were actually served we were almost helpless with hysteria!

We left Amalfi on one of those perfect Italian days, blue skies, sparkling seas, birds singing and tackled the infamous Amalfi coast road, clinging on to sheer cliffs, amazing views but no time to stop, not with a powder blue Fiat clinging to our back bumper!








Our first sighting of Positano was pretty spectacular clinging as it does to the cliffside and dressed in different shades of ochre. Our parking was pretty spectacular too, we found a space just large enough for our car next to where two walls joined, one stepped out from the other by about 30 cm. I stood next to the wall making sure Jim didn't get too close as he reversed in. What a team, perfect parking. Then we realised I was trapped in the little triangular shaped space between the two walls! After 10 minutes and convoluted contortions I was out and we set off to explore. The buildings are piled up in a sort of pyramid and the main, steep street is very picturesque, lined with gorgeous restaurants, small boutiques and exclusive florists.









Another 30 minutes and we arrived at our next hotel, on a hill above Sorrento. No sooner checked in and, disaster..... I'd left my kindle at the hotel in Amalfi, only 36km away, but that road. I know what you're thinking, I don't have a lot of luck with kindles, this is my third. My husband said something like that too!!!!

Got back to Sorrento at 8ish!







- Posted using BlogPress from Annie & Jim's I-pad

Location:Sorrento Peninsula, Italy

Our Umbrian adventure - week 32 of our travels

Life just gets tougher and tougher!


On Tuesday the temperatures soared so we did ....... nothing. A day to laze around on the terrace, read, contemplate the view, wonder what to have for dinner and if it was too early to open the wine.

To repent for our slothful ways we set off, remember we're half way up an enormous hillside, on mountain bikes. Going downhill was slightly scary, no brakes. Going uphill was slightly difficult, no gears. Still, the pedals turned the wheels and we made a good distance taking in a route around little villages, vineyards, market garden-type places and corn fields. The sun was still warm, the light on the houses mellow and our bums hurt like hell!

Roberto (phwoar) arrived at 8.30 pm to bring us a massive jam tart, this serving dish is the size of two dinner plates, which his mama had made for us this afternoon! Remember Roberto is about 45 years old!! These Italian boys love their mamas and their mamas love their boys!


Wednesday dawned bright and beautiful again, we took a tour of some of the gorgeous villages and towns in the valley. We began by going up to the top of the hill to the small, but perfectly formed, village of Bettona then meandered down to the mediaeval village of Spello. It's all tiny streets, pink stone and pot plants and so, so pretty. We passed by a small Tourist Information centre so stuck our heads round the door. The girl inside said, 'You like to explore Spello? Very simple, one street, go left then right.' Don't think she was too enamoured with her lot!


Unfortunately as we were returning to the car big black clouds appeared, then the heavens opened. Never mind we were on our way to Spoleto, a stylish, but very quiet town. (I think it was half-day closing on Wednesday!)


The streets led upwards, don't they always, in ever increasing gradients until I was walking on my toes. Our first bit of Italian pizza for lunch, oh bliss, just no-where else in the world serves pizza like this - thin base, fresh tomato sauce, herbs and mozzarella, melts in your mouth. The rain hadn't reached Spoleto so we walked up and down, in and out, window shopping and dreaming of a little place in the Umbrian sun!


Eventually we found a bar/cafe with wi-fi and spent a pleasant hour catching up on e-mails, news from home, football results, posting the last blog and searching for accommodation for the coming weekend.

Oh the vagaries of Italian plumbing! There are two hot taps in the apartment and a shower. You must remember that nothing is instant, this is Italy after all, and turn the bathroom tap on before you visit the toilet. When you need to wash your hands the water may, and I mean may, be hot. Same with the shower, turn it on, forget about it for 10 minutes, then return and act pleasantly surprised if it warms your body, then scream as it goes scalding hot! As for the kitchen tap ...... it would be quicker to wait for Leeds to get promoted! Speaking of which, whilst we were in Monaco Jim thought he'd pay a visit to Ken Bates and offer him a bit of advice re his favourite football club, turns out Ken wasn't at home - he was in Leeds dishing out ultimatums to the boy from Sheffield. Typical!

We went to Gubbio on Thursday, 'the most thoroughly mediaeval of the Umbrian towns' courtesy of The Rough Guide to Italy circa 2003 (must have been the first year we visited Italy then.) It's absolutely picture-perfect, rose-pink houses and orange tiled roofs with the Apennines behind. We wandered through the narrow streets, dodging cars squeezing through impossibly tiny spaces and even driving down steps! We took the funicular up to the Basilica from Porta Romana, you step onto these wire cages then dangle precariously over the crags and woods below you as you slowly and jerkily make your way to the top.








Bit unnerving but I loved it, and the views of the town from the top were pretty spectacular. In the basilica are three massive wooden pillars (cera) which are carried up the steep winding road to the basilica in an annual race which has apparently been going on for 900 years. The rules are so convoluted, but apparently the same team has to win every year!!! What's the point then? It obviously includes lots of alcohol and when the ceras are raised vertical at the end of the race and the crowd roar their approval - well thats got nothing to do with religion, more like.... well, you make up your own minds.


As we were leaving Gubbio we got caught on the edge of a thunderstorm which looked pretty amazing, albeit it was over the Bettona hills. When we got back we were faced with sodden towels, put out to dry on the terrace in the sun that morning, but there was a gorgeous rainbow over the valley as some recompense.


Friday was our last day in Umbria and we were slightly panicked as we had no where to stay in Amalfi. We sent off loads of enquiries but, unusually, had no returns. Anyway Friday morning saw us sitting in the Ipermarket in Collestrada, the only place which has wi-fi for miles around. Finally, realising the website we have been using for owner apartment lets wasn't working we booked an hotel. Business accomplished we headed for two hillside villages just to have a meander and the obligatory shot of coffee. For your information they are called Trevi, where we picnicked,


and Montefalco where we spent a pleasant half an hour in a bar with two Italian women who didn't have a word of English, matched our lack of Italian perfectly! Still we managed to communicate somehow!


Roberto came round for a chat tonight about our travels, he and his wife are planning to go to Australia, when the youngest of his four children, aged from 6 to 17, grows up a bit!!!

We bought a 5 litre can of extra virgin olive oil made from his own olive trees. We were having a moan about the roads in Umbria, even the surface of motorways and dual carriageways is as rough as a farm track at home. Roberto explained there is no money for road repairs. He loves having people from England, Germany, Denmark, etc to stay, but dislikes having Italians. 'They've got no money to spend,' he said. In his opinion he thinks Britain were very sensible not to join the Euro. Fascinating to hear others' opinions.

Sadly, we say goodbye and head towards Amalfi.





- Posted using BlogPress from Annie & Jim's I-pad

Location:La Macina di Bettona, Umbria, Italy

In love - again!

The travel tart has reared her head again, we are now in my most favourite country on the planet - number 10 on our travels if you're counting - Italia, bellisimo!

To all my teacher friends, and colleagues, I hope you had a great Easter break and it wasn't too difficult getting up on Monday morning. I thought about you, as I turned over!




To back track, we had a great time exploring Nice, particularly it's beautiful old town, which was mysteriously atmospheric after dark, especially after a botteille de vin rouge (or two.) Interesting statues on sticks I think you'll agree.





We parked the car on a steep road in a residential area, and left it the whole time we were in Nice. Parking is at a premium and to find a free spot is a rarity so we held onto it and used public transport! The museum of modern art was worth a visit, particularly the sculpture garden on the roof.


We had an interesting time in Cannes, well getting there actually. We caught the train, one of these super efficient double-decker affairs, which set off splendidly until we got to Antibes. Then, it sat at the station, and sat, and sat. The announcements were pretty basic, apologies for delay, problems between Cannes and Grasse, didn't know how long it would take, etc, etc. No mention of getting off and switching to another train. We had to work that one out for ourselves, suddenly we saw another train pull in alongside us and we legged it - down stairs, along corridors, up stairs, and jumped on just as the whistle blew. Well, at least I jumped on. Mr Efficiency was making sure it went to Cannes. The door shut, with me on the train and Jim on the platform looking up! He used brute force to open the door, much to the guards disapproval, and we were off, eventually arriving in Cannes 2 hours late.


Lovely old town, great coffee, massive sandwiches, old style glamour, and the film festival everywhere.


Our best trip though was to Monaco, even though it threw it down all day.
A three-quarters of an hour bus trip took us up winding cornichons, clinging to the cliff edge. Monaco is drop dead gorgeous, absolutely pristine, smells of money, incredibly glamorous, we fitted in immediately! First job - count all the Ferraris, Lamborghinis and Rolls' outside Monte Carlo casino.




We walked up the steep paths, through immaculate gardens, to the palace, set in the historical centre. It was just like a film set, so gorgeous but yet, so real.








The grand prix takes place next month and the press stands, spectator seating, pit lanes, crash barriers and safety fences were being erected.





The yachts in the harbours were obviously understated, Jim didn't look sick, green or jealous in any way whatsoever!





I've got to tell you about the nut brown, leathery men and women sunbathing in any tiny bit of sun along the pebbles which pass for a beach in Nice. OMG!! Men in tiny thongs, generally gold or silver, large, but pert, medically enhanced breasts on 40+ women. We had a bit of a competition going on, who could find the most grotesque human lookalike, it was a tricky, close run contest but Jim won, paying far too much attention to false boobs, trout pouts and cat-like eyes!!

Reluctantly we left Nice on Sunday morning and drove to a small village, perched on a hill opposite Assisi in Italy. It took us 6 hours with a toilet stop - phew, a lunch stop and a shot of coffee stop. Immediately, on arrival, we felt we had arrived in Paradise. The apartment is in a converted farmhouse on an olive grove and is simply idyllic, overlooking a lovely valley.









We may stay here forever!

Today saw us visit Assisi, not really to follow the footsteps of St Francis, but just to wander and absorb the ambience. The sun was shining, there were blue skies, life doesn't really get any better!











PS. If I'm a travel tart James is a food tart, every country so far has his favourite food - pad Thai, in Thailand, whole fish in Malaysia, lamb steaks in Australia, barbecued of course, curries in New Zealand, fajitas in America, delectable melt in the mouth pastries in France, and of course pasta in Italy.
(I think France is winning, no-where else comes close to producing cakes to satisfy his sweet tooth). Obviously I have to make do with fruit or by now I would look like a house end. No comments please.

We're having mountain bikes delivered tomorrow, courtesy of Roberto, the owner of our little abode - now that's fit eye candy! We'll see where we end up.

- Posted using BlogPress from Annie & Jim's I-pad

Location:La Macina di Bettona, Umbria, Italia

From Normandy to the Cote d'Azur

Paris - what can I say. It is still beautiful, invigorating but draining, manic, stylish, quirky and oh, so elegant and there is still dog shit everywhere! The queues were phenomenal, it is the Easter holidays after all, so reluctantly we gazed at the long lines waiting to go into the Cathedrale de Notre-Dame and the Musee d'Orsay and carried on.




We were heading for the Latin Quarter where we wandered round the Sorbonne and the College de France universities. My French must be appalling because, even in Paris, where everyone pretends they can't understand you, as soon as I speak they answer me in English! The sun came out so we sat in the Jardin du Luxembourg and watched the world go by.


We ended the day strolling along the Boulevard St-Germain. A picnic of bread, Boursin, pate, olives and a nice bottle of red - perfect.

The next day we went to the Palace of Versailles, this time prepared to queue. It was pretty cold but we braved the gardens first, watching the fountains performing to music. Just like Vegas!










It was packed inside the palace, pretty difficult to see everything, made even harder by people taking photos everywhere. We found that to be weird, flashes were going off all over the place, doesn't that damage the paintings and stuff. Jim walked through a doorway just as several people in the room decided to take photos. He remarked, 'I felt just like George Clooney walking down the red carpet.' I assured him he didn't look like George Clooney.
Still it was a pretty amazing place.

We left Gasny on Easter Sunday, Brigitte presented us with a chocolate Easter chick each, bless her! A long, but fairly easy journey took us to Lyon, what a beautiful city, my favourite spot so far.

It has large squares with sweeping boulevards, along with ancient narrow streets and the obligatory cathedral. We climbed high up to the Basilica Notre-Dame pour Fourviere. It looks pretty spectacular when it's lit up at night.


We went to the Croix-Rousse, a rabbit warren of narrow streets, criss-crossed by t or secret passageways, which were used during the Second World War to escape raids by the Gestapo.


In Bellecour Square Louis XIV looked like he'd hit the sales, with a carrier bag over each shoulder!



Leaving Lyon on Tuesday morning another few hours down the motorway found us on the Cote D'Azur. Mind you it was throwing it down and the med appeared more grey than azure.



But today it dawned sunny, with bright blue skies, we visited the market and Nice old town. We've got a sweet little apartment and it was so good to cook a meal again.








Tomorrow is all about finding some wi-fi, times of trains to Monaco and Cannes and plotting our departure from France. I'm writing this in bed and there's a family gathering going on next door. Oh well, we don't have to get up early in the morning!


- Posted using BlogPress from Annie & Jim's I-pad

Location:Rue de France, Nice