Last days in Alice.

After our inactivity over the past two days whilst we have been cooped up in a car we decided some exercise was overdue so ... bike hire it is then. Alice Springs, Upuru, etc sit in Simpsons desert which stretches into Western Australia and to the top of South Australia. We planned to ride to Simpsons Gap in the West McDonnell range along a meandering cycle track which roams through the bush.

Setting off at 10.15 we made our way the 7km or so out of town and to the beginning of the track. The weather was beautiful, about 25 degrees with a slight breeze, just perfect for cycling. Taking advice from the locals we wore long sleeved shirts with our shorts which kept a lot of the sun off us and were cooler than T-shirts. Along the track there were info. boards explaining the fauna, geology of the area and the different birds we could see and hear. We were joined for part of our journey by a wedge-tailed eagle which swooped and dived above us and kept track with us for several km.



After a further 17km we arrived at the track to Simpsons Gap. It took us another 20 minutes to reach but it was spectacular. We actually saw some water in the gap but it is water which is slowly dripping from the rocks from many years' previous rainfall.





There were rock wallabies living on the slopes but no matter how long we stood still we failed to see any, their camouflage is pretty clever.

We spent about an hour at the Gap then began our journey back, another 28km. There seemed to be loads more uphill sections going back than on the way there, but we stopped for a mouthful of our rationed water every 20 minutes. My bum was feeling very tender and it was agony each time we got back on the bikes! Still we stuck at it and got back to have a good long conversation with the nice man at the YHA from where we had rented the bikes. He had just returned from 2 months in England and was in love with the place. He couldn't wait to go back and was already planning his next trip!

Today, Saturday, dawned and, after checking out of the hotel, we wandered, had a leisurely lunch and caught our shuttle to the airport. It's now 4.15 pm and our flight to Cairns goes in an hour and 10 mins. Another 2 1/2 hours, watches forward another half an hour, and we'll see Alex again after 11 months. Can't wait. I text him this morning to ask if he had cooked ready for our arrival, he said we were going to the night market in Cairns! Nothing changed there then! Wonder who'll pay?

We're looking forward to a week in Port Douglas, then who knows, not sure where we're heading after that, but still, I guess that's the beauty of travelling like this - the element of surprise!

8pm

He's just the same! I didn't cry, but how fantastic to get my arms round him!



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Location:Port Douglas Road,Port Douglas,Australia

Ain't nature marvellous.

We left the hotel in Alice at 7.15 and set off on the drive to Uluru. After 3 hours of driving through red sands and rocks, on the Stuart highway, the sameness of which can make you boggled-eyed, we stopped at a service area. We thought we'd have a coffee, but there were two guys working there, serving petrol, working in the shop and the cafe. We gave up on the wait and got back in the car. Uluru appeared tantalisingly close but it took another hour after first sighting to reach. It is enormous and has an almost ethereal quality, it is a sacred place for the aborigines and as such, most people treat it with the respect it deserves. And it does command respect.

The only thing which distracts you are the amount of flies which make a beeline for your face.


We walked around the base then headed for the Cultural Centre where we learned all about the geology of Uluru and its neighbour, 50kms away, Kings Canyon. After lunching we decided to walk round the dunes, the scent of desert flowers in the heat was intoxicating.




Returning from our walk we headed for a car drive-in to watch the sunset over Uluru. We arrived at 5.30 to watch the whole process. More and more cars and camper vans arrived until the car park resembled an audience waiting for the concert to start. So many people, so many nationalities and yet it was quiet and considered and that word - respect - comes to mind again.

We were simply watching the sun go down, which happens very quickly in Australia, there is no dusk, but the effect was phenomenal, the colours change on the face of the rock as the light decreases, going from orange through to red, then lilac, then, as the shadows creep up it, to brown.















At the risk of sounding new-agey, it was a privilege to be there and an almost spiritual experience.

Now for the boring geology bit - the rock is compressed iron rich sandstone which has been raised from horizontal to vertical through the movement of the earth and the red colour is due to oxidisation. Close to, it looks wet.

Due to the amount of suicidal cattle and kangaroos on the road at night car hire companies don't let you drive in the hours of darkness so we stayed at the Outback Pioneer hotel and had an Aussie carvery, you buy your raw meat and barbecue it yourself.

On our drive to Uluru we had spotted a lone emu to relive the monotony and on the way back we saw a dingo! There were several road trains though, mammoth trucks which are three articulated lorries in one and are 50m long.







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Location:Todd Street,Alice Springs,Australia

Alice, Alice, who the .... is Alice

We've spent the past 6 days in the Northern Territories, another huge place consisting of Darwin in the north, Alice Springs almost in the centre, a few other townships and the amazing rock formations and miles and miles of red sand in what is known as the 'red centre.'

We spent Tuesday exploring Alice, we visited the Olive Pink Botanic Centre, a tranquil but obviously very arid setting, where desert plants are showcased. the terrain around Alice is rocky and we climbed to the top of one of the outcrops. We were gazing at the view when we realised that one of the rocks was moving, it was a kangaroo, so well camouflaged, it set off up the slope and about 10 others emerged from their hiding places and set off after it. It was a magical moment.









The photo above shows the Todd river, it's dry all year but for a few days some years when it floods. Alice holds the alternative Henley-on-Thames regatta, it's called Henley on the Todd, a race in bottomless boats along the dry river bed!
This is the dry, cool season in Central Australia, or Winter, as opposed to the hot, wet season, or summer. At this time of the year day time temperatures are about 24 or 25 degrees with night time temperatures of 4 or 5 degrees. In summer the temperatures can reach 45 degrees with cool evenings. It is a beautiful temperature at the moment, because there is no humidity at all the heat is perfect, it is peak season because all activities are manageable. In summer trails and excursions stop because in the desert there is no respite from the searing heat.

We had a trip to the Flying Doctors service to learn about its formation, where it flies and the service it delivers. Fascinating stuff. You can't believe the distances between places. We past gates leading to cattle farms, or stations, as they are called. There were signs showing how far away the homestead is from the entrance - 80, 100 or even 150 km!!

Uluru was on the agenda for the following day, so we collected a hire car and took ourselves to bed early in readiness for the 460km drive. Jim set the alarm on his phone for 5.40am, which was fine but the spam phone call from the UK about mis-sold loan insurance at 1.40 am was not!





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Location:Todd Street,Alice Springs,Australia

A weekend to remember

We had such a good night on Friday, we went into Northbridge to an Italian restaurant where we got chatting to the pizza chef, a guy who had only been in Perth for a month, from his home in Ischia. We spent some time bemoaning the ingredients he had to work with - plastic cheese rather than the lovely Italian hard cheeses and mozzarella. He was such a lovely man, he is liking Perth because he earns much more than he can in Italy. After leaving the restaurant we made our way to the Moon and Sixpence for a small beverage, there was an English band on, they were really good, we had a little bop! You can't beat a bit of Oasis!!
On Saturday we went back to Fremantle and saw the tall ships properly. The markets are superb, loads of quirky and very lovely things which I coveted but applied the retail brakes and did not buy. Great food stalls, we shared a Turkish feta and spinach gozleme and mushroom paella. Sublime.




After a stint - about 2 hours - in the Maritime Museum, which had an amazing wildlife photography competition exhibition on, we found ourselves drawn by the music to a huge warehouse, which is home to the Little Creatures brewery. It is massive, with big silver vats down each side, you can see into the working brewery, and bars and a restaurant down the middle. A couple of pints of Bright ale, marinated octopus, creamy hummus and a huge silver pot of chips later and we boarded the train back to Perth. I feel I have eaten loads today!!
Super fit Sunday! We woke up to beautiful blue skies and hot sunshine so took a couple of bikes and cycled alongside the Swan river, the path goes on for miles. We cycled out of Perth and through the city of Vincent and beyond, through nature reserves, children's playgrounds, suburbs and countryside till eventually deciding to turn round and make our way back.




We arrived at an old jetty and spent a pleasant 30 minutes watching boats go by and the odd fishermen before getting back on our bikes. The next port of call was a development around what had been a small riverside port, now surrounded by picture perfect townhouses and bars. We only stopped for a coffee but reasoned that as it was after 12 noon why not have brunch - so Eggs Benedict for two was ordered, beautiful! After cycling 28km altogether, and depositing our bikes back at the hotel, we ventured again into Kings Park. Our walk took us through some pretty impressive bush, amazing to think we were only 10 mins from the CBD as we left the park.
Today, Monday, we left the hotel and began our journey to the airport. Onto our next plane, this time a Qantas flight and in 2 1/2 hours we landed at Alice Springs. First impressions? Dry, red and dusty but very pretty with towering rock formations around it. It's as the Americans and Aussies would say - awesome!
We are now another 1 1/2 hours in front so no sooner checked into out hotel and we meandered round to find something to eat. There are lots of Aborigine folk around, many art galleries and paintings being sold on the street. Lots of security everywhere too, as many people seem to have had a drink or two! Takeaway pizza it is then!
I think the exploring starts tomorrow.
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Location:Todd Street,Alice Springs,Australia

Pretty Freo and grey skies

Thursday, 25th July
We've had a great day in glorious sunshine. We took the train to Fremantle, or Freo as its known round these parts, an hour from Perth and the most laid-back, pretty place, it's all big blue Indian Ocean, silvery decking and fine sands with lots of quirky shops and eateries. A perfect day.




Four tall ships had just arrived from Britain and Holland, we intend to come back over the weekend to have a good look at them and to visit the markets which are open on Fridays and Saturdays, oh, and to partake of a little beverage or two in The Ship.




Friday, 26th July - 4.30pm.
A whole week since we broke up, how can time pass this quickly!
Woke up through the night to hear the rain and when I eventually surfaced at 9 it was raining good and proper! Took this as an opportunity to visit the library and plot next weeks itinerary. We did a bit of research into tours from Alice Springs to Uluru and what to see whilst in the town. I e-mailed Emirates yesterday morning re my 'mislaid' kindle but have not received a reply. By now someone else will be reading my book club choices, travel books, biographies, etc. Oh and soppy chick lit and a bit of fifty ...!
We have spent the afternoon perusing the art gallery and the museum of Western Australia. Found some fascinating facts - Western Australia is huuuuge. England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland plus Texas and several European countries can fit in to it with space left over. It has a population of 1.8 million. Perth's 1.5 million people live in an area of 90km x 40km. London has an area of 39km x 39km and sustains over 8 million people.
I'm just a walking fact machine. Cattle ranches are so massive, it can take up to 4 hours to drive from the entrance to the homestead!!
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Location:Mounts Bay Road,Perth,Australia

A regurgitation of sorts

We're revisiting our old friend - the blog. If anyone reads it that'll be grand but really it's a way of keeping a diary, because without photos and events written down, it is as if they never happened in my non-existent memory! No photos yet though cos we've forgotten to bring the I-pad adapter. We made Perth at 12.15 pm on Monday. The train left Cattal to Leeds at 1.30 pm on Saturday and was pretty uneventful, followed by an equally straightforward trip to Kings Cross. We then caught the train to London Bridge and on to Gatwick where we stayed in one of Lenny Henry's favourite hotels.
We were up, breakfasted and on the plane to Dubai at 10 am on Sunday morning. Go Emirates! What a perfectly brilliant airline, great service and edible food! We arrived in Dubai after 6 1/2 hours at 7.45 pm (3 hours forward from UK.) Just before we sat down on the plane 2 hours later I realised I'd left my kindle on the Dubai plane!!! The very nice stewardess advised me to report it to ground staff in Perth. Our first awkward moment. My husband simply said, 'Do you expect me to be surprised?'
Arriving in Perth after another 10 hours on a plane we were both slightly knackered but pretty buoyant and excited. We had our first cup of gorgeous Australian coffee then caught the shuttle into town, it dropped us off right outside our pretty little hotel. A quick shower to wake us up and we set off into the city. Perth is situated on the Swan river estuary and is beautiful. We wandered round, bought a new kindle and found a pub where we began to feel a little spaced out before James succumbed to big zzzz's at 7.30pm! I then found I couldn't sleep and was wide awake.
On Tuesday we meandered up to and around King's Park, a massive area which has lawns, the botanic gardens, hiking trails up and around the hillside and wild bush. Feeling invigorated we tackled a pretty big walk which took us through the grounds of the University of Western Australia, to the riverside and all the way back into the city. The weather is beautiful, blue skies and really hot, if this is winter in Perth it's fine by me! However evenings are pretty cold and it's dark by 6pm.
Today we've been to Heirisson Island, across a causeway and onto the island which is a nature reserve and kangaroo sanctuary. We past the West Australian Cricket Association or as the locals say, the 'Wacker.'
We'd forgotten how loud Australia is, forget the gentle dawn chorus, the birds here are bruisers! They shriek, squeal, yell and moan. You kind of forgive them though cos they are pretty spectacular, both in attitude and looks.
We're on the train tomorrow for a trip to Fremantle. At the time of writing - 10pm - it's raining heavily. Hopefully it'll be clear in the morning.
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Location:Mounts Bay Road,Perth,Australia

Journey's End

Well, here we are, back where we started. Home sweet home! It feels quite surreal to be back and a big deal to us. Of course, it's not really a big deal to everyone else who have been going about their everyday business for the past 10 months! Our last two days in Wales were interesting - and very wet! We visited St David's, a really pretty town with the most impressive cathedral. It seemed appropriate to be eating hot soup for lunch, in the refectory, on the 29th June, as it was so damn cold! 

Saturday dawned bright, we packed the car for the last time and, bidding goodbye to Peter and Thelma, we left Wales and began our drive back to Yorkshire. We were conscious that this was our last period of time together as a couple and passed the journey reminiscing about places we have been and the amazing people we have met over the past 10 months.

Liam had hired a van in Liverpool, packed it with all his wordly possessions then driven to Sheffield to pack all the contents of Alex's student abode. They rang us to say they'd arrived in Wetherby, we were still making our way along the winding roads of Wales. Some - considerable - time later we too were lured by the bright lights of the Days Inn at Wetherby services, our last stop before home. After a raucous evening with our sons, eating curry and drinking beer, it suddenly dawned on us that our peaceful life had come to an end. A bitter sweet feeling!

We were up early on Sunday, Jim and Liam set off in the van whilst I hung about waiting for Alex to get out of the shower! As I drove into the village and set eyes on our house for the first time I felt quite emotional. I know that this adventure has been so good for us. We have come back to England as two people with changed values and different goals. Throughout our many experiences we have surprised ourselves and each other sometimes. At the risk of sounding 'new agey,' I think we have re-evaluated our lives and appreciate what is important. 

 
 

We have had a ball, an amazing time and have been very lucky with the support offered to us by our families and, particularly, our fantastic sons.


This is the last entry on this particular blog, thank you to all of you for keeping reading, for your comments, texts and e-mails, we have appreciated them all. Look out for the book!!!


Just got to save up for the next adventure. Thanks once again. Au revoir.......