Monday, 12 December 2011

Journey into the unknown!

Day 1 of our road trip to Sydney - 8th Dec

Leaving Tanunda we headed for the Sturt Highway which is the main road across the outback connecting Adelaide with Sydney. Speed limits here are very low considering the the massive wide open roads you travel on and the distinct lack of traffic.


110km/ph is the maximum speed - or 68mph! Oh man, it does my head in. It quite clearly doesn't reduce accidents cos there are loads of people killed on the roads. You have to reduce your speed round bends, of which there are hardly any, to 65km/ph. You could go round them at 110 and it would still be slow!!!! And don't start me on road works - 25km/ph! ******* **** The air in the car turned blue, and it wasn't me, it was my calm, laid-back, unflappable husband!

The Aussies obey every speed limit, every time - they wait at road junctions when 16 cars could have got out, they don't go through spaces that an armoured tank could get through. When I took my turn to drive, after the obligatory 2 hour swap over you are asked to adhere to, I found myself shouting, 'Drive like a European!'

A lot of planning, for us, has gone into this stage of our travels. We worked out where to stop, rather than distances travelled, because we were determined not to stay in a grotty motel in a one horse town or, worse still, in the car!

We were heading for a town called Mildura on the mighty Murray River. Wherever you see the Murray written or hear it said, it has the word 'mighty' in front of it. I guess it is, its the life blood of the majority of South Australia and the largest river in Oz.





The temperature was 38 degrees, the air con was high, the music was pumping as we drove through the most barren, brown and boring landscape! We found a spot to picnic and, I swear, I could feel my skin pop into blisters instantly! And the flies - swarms of nasty big black things. Yeuch. Soon after lunch we crossed the state border back into Victoria and immediately lost half an hour, such is the time difference!

We travelled behind a massive truck for a little way, it then turned off down a dirt track and chucked up a stone which immediately chipped our windscreen - nice!

Mildura is situated on the Murray, obviously. It is a town.

The middle aged woman in the visitor centre booked us an apartment. As she gave us directions she said, 'Straight on to Street 14, turn left, then you might have to do a yuey.' I looked at her and said, 'But it's a U-turn isn't it, just say U-turn.' I didn't really say that, but I so wanted to. Jim could see that and he was rolling about.

Day 2 - 9th Dec

We've seen about 15 dead kangaroos on the roadside today. They must have a suicide wish because how they manage to get run over when there's hardly any traffic and such massive wide open roads I do not know.



This is how far we had to go, we passed this sign 10 minutes after we set off this morning at 9.30 (and I got up without being nagged.) Mildura sits in the northern most part of Victoria. As soon as we crossed the Murray we were over the next state border and in New South Wales, and the time went forward half an hour again. Foot down, well to 110 km/ph and we were off. New South Wales obviously takes road safety seriously:




These signs are placed at regular intervals along the roadside. The temperature was much lower today, topping 32 degrees and cloudy. This made a big difference to driving. Jim drove for the morning session, it took us about 2 1/2 hours to reach Hay, a town famous for .......shearing sheep - OK.
In fact it has a sheep shearing museum, $15 to look at shears - and model sheep. We gave it a miss!




The land was flat, flat, flat and scrub as far as the eye could see, on both sides of the road. We saw several 'flocks' of emus and pretty impressive birds of prey circling around.

After lunch I drove the remainder of the way to Wagga Wagga, the states largest inland city. Altogether we've covered 560 km today. The road stretches straight in front and shimmers in the heat. When you look in your mirror it shimmers behind you.


Yeah, thanks for that!




Each state is obsessed with fruit flies.

We had to cover quite a distance today because, basically there is nowhere to stop and nothing to do, tomorrow we're just going to drive a shortish distance and find somewhere to stay which will enable us to visit Canberra on Sunday and Monday.

I'm now writing this in our motel room (it's clean and ok, thanks for asking).
We've just watched Jamie Oliver cooking with beer in Yorkshire and Jim is drooling for a proper pint instead of this pale lager they call beer here.

Day 3 - 10th Dec




The sign outside of Wagga Wagga inspired us to push on and hit the open road again this morning. The scenery is much gentler, more livestock grazing and wheat being grown in enormous fields. We passed through Kosciuszko National Park, the alpine area where there are hills! It's home to Australia's highest mountain.


On to Gundagai, another very sleepy small town. A quick trip to the information centre saw us marching up a very steep hill to take in the views of the wooden bridge and wooden railway track. Doesn't seem much but when you've been stuck in a car....


Thought we'd find a cafe for lunch but, it being Saturday, every shop in the place had shut at 12 noon. Tumbleweed rolled down the main street.

Getting back into the car the decision was made - no more little towns, head for Canberra! No sooner said than done, we were there at about 3.30 and in our motel by 4ish, showered and out by 7. What a great night, we settled down in Charlie Blacks, a trendy brasserie. Soon after we'd eaten it became obvious there was a birthday party taking place, a 21st birthday party, so the place filled up with glamorous girls showing their 'mantle and hearth,' as my husband so politely put it, and massive heels. The boys had clearly made an effort in jeans, T-shirts and trainers! Anyway after watching them get wasted - quickly, we headed for another bar where we spent an entertaining hour with three Aussie guys swapping travel tales. They were so funny, their comments about people passing were hysterical, but pretty base!

Day 4 - Sun, 11th Dec

Canberra is set out like the spokes of a wheel, two concentric circles with roads crossing them. It has obviously been built for the car, it's certainly not walkable. We bit the bullet and visited the Christmas market at The Old Bus Depot. It was full of crafts and artisan foods and was interesting to walk round but not a bit Christmassy! Not like Durham last year, in the snow, with carols playing and the smell of mulled wine! We emerged into bright sunshine.

We were feeling slightly delicate so set off for a walk round Burley Griffin Lake which is pretty massive. The Canberra Ironman triathlon was taking place in Centenary Park at the other side of the lake from us so we were intent on walking round to see some of it. Setting off we eyed the sky, it had become very dark.


Stopping to identify some of the fancy buildings on a map we were joined by a friendly Australian woman who was very chatty and regaled us with all sorts of tales. We became aware of a few spots of rain, and with our new friend, headed for some trees. The drops became faster and faster until we were standing in a torrent. Half an hour later, drenched, dripping and freezing we trudged back to the car. Wearing dry clothes we set off again, this time to the National Portrait Gallery followed by the National Gallery of Australia. I know, but it was pouring down! When the rain eventually stopped we managed that walk round the lake. Tonight, on the news, there have been pictures of flash floods, people being rescued from cars, etc.









Day 5 - Mon, 12th Dec

A jam packed day today, we went to Parliament House this morning, it sits on Capital Hill. The PM, Julia Gillard, was announcing her reshuffled cabinet this afternoon so there were film crews and cameras in abundance. it was a fascinating visit, really interesting, we were inside for 3 hours. Of course, we found someone to talk to, today, a guy from Canada who gave us the hard sell for visiting his home country. We've been wondering whether to go to Europe at the end of March or whether to spend 3 months in Canada?!



House of Representatives




The Senate




Up on the roof

We parked in a car park which is underneath the foyer of the building and wondered how we could get so close. But the Aussies are as casual with their Parliament building as they are with everything else.



You obviously can't enter in beach gear or naked but .....

This afternoon we explored the National Museum of Australia, again fascinating, and so well done, not dusty with loads of artefacts but experiential.






We've turned into proper culture vultures - it won't last, but we've learned a lot.
Tomorrow, we're back on the road, a short sprint to a town near Sydney, we need to be there on the 14th. I can't wait to be in an apartment again, unpack suitcases, wash clothes and do a bit of cooking!! I know, the things you miss!

Day 6 - Tues, 13th Dec




We've had a quick sprint down the Federal Highway today to Goulburn, now we're just short of 200km away from Sydney.
Guess what it's famous for.


Yes, sheep sha...., sorry, shearing.

On the way from the highway into town I got stopped by the police. It was about 12.15 pm. I opened my window and he said, 'Have you had a drink today?' I resisted confirming I had drunk a cup of tea earlier but said, 'I wish.' That went down like a lead balloon! He handed me a breath tester and asked me to count to 10. Luckily, I remembered my numbers. He stopped me at 5, I think he was slightly disappointed. He then asked me for my driving licence, which handily was in my purse. I gave him it, he looked at it, then handed it back, clearly not having a clue what it meant. Obviously my husband was very concerned whilst all this was happening, he'd seized the opportunity, got out of the car and was photographing the bloody ram!!

Goulburn is another town. In keeping with it being a country type of place it holds an annual blues festival and has sculptures around the place to commemorate each year.


We spent a really entertaining hour or so this afternoon in an information centre with a brilliant couple. I heard the accent first and asked her where she was from. She said, 'Yorkshire - Whitby.' Then proceeded to tell me they have lived in Canada for 18 years - well you couldn't tell. Her husband said, 'No, but all our neighbours speak Yorkshire!' Anyway, we now have contacts in Winnipeg, methinks our Canada adventure is getting ever closer!

I bought two Christmas presents today - yippee!

This is a long, long blog but I hope it entertains you a little. Hope to see you in Sydney, when we can find wi-fi again.



- Posted by Annie & Jim using BlogPress from THE iPad

Wednesday, 7 December 2011

Sampling the grape

We've spent 2 days exploring Adelaide since the last blog. It's a far more compact city centre than Melbourne and no-where near as trendy. Bar culture has not hit Adelaide yet but there are great restaurants and pubs
with pokies.






On Monday evening we walked round the lake in Elder Park, the Foo Fighters were playing at Adelaide Oval so we sat and listened to one of the support acts. OMG, screaming and shouting to make your ears bleed! A black swan befriended us and sat patiently at our feet until an Aussie bloke came along, asked if the goose would like a drink, then poured half a can of his beer onto the path!



Onto the Barossa Valley: what a beautiful part of the world. Vines as far as the eye can see and many, many cellar doors to visit!

We are staying in Tanunda and when we arrived we went to the tourist information office and booked. After sorting out the paperwork and payment we went to leave, and almost as an afterthought, asked where we would get the key. The nice lady said, 'Its under the doormat,' and it was. It's justthat type of place.

Tuesday saw us paying homage to the mighty Jacobs Creek. It has a visitor centre and walking trail and obviously cellar door tastings. We had to try several varieties - of course!










I learned my lesson, in the 34 degree heat, drinking red wine all afternoon gives you headache, so today I stuck to white and drank loads of water until we got to the vinery next to where we are staying. By then it was 5 pm and what the heck!

We began the day on Mengler Hill, from the summit you can view some of the vineyards. You realise how brown and dry everywhere is, if it isn't being irrigated.






Picnicking in the sunshine in a beautiful town called Angaston, centre of the fruit growing, bottling and drying industries in the Barossa, I once again thought, 'It doesn't get much better than this!' Leaving Angaston we followed a trail around the various wineries, stopping to sample some pretty nice whites at Whistler Wines.








As you can see they offer 'extras,' they're all a bit quirky!

We finished the day at the Chateau Tanunda Estate winery next to where we are staying. When we walked down to it we realised why it was so named, we could have been in France.





We spent a very pleasant 45 minutes leant against the bar, talking to two twenty-something blokes, one from Glossop the other from Germany. They had met in Cairns, bought a car and were on a road trip. The barmaid was very chatty and we slowly worked our way through several different wines, she actually apologised when it was time to close. I think she was enjoying it as much as us and would have carried on for afters if she could have. We bought a couple of bottles to take away, including a sparkling shiraz which, added to our previous purchases, sorted out Christmas Day.





We begin our trip to Sydney tomorrow, approximately 1300 km. Although we are expecting to visit some interesting places I'm guessing there's going to be a lot of nothingness. Jim had his hair cut this morning and a guy, talking to me as I was waiting, told us to be very careful of where we stopped and to always keep the car doors shut. He said, 'If it looks like bush, it is bush, stay in the car, there's too many dangerous creepy crawlies and snakes about!' Bloody marvellous!

- Posted by Annie & Jim using BlogPress from THE iPad

Location:Murray Street, Tanunda, South Australia

Saturday, 3 December 2011

Adelaide - at last

Well, we're into December already - can you believe it. Hope you've started Christmas shopping and opening your advent calendars. Its Day 86 of our travels and we're still speaking and, in fact getting on quite well! I know, you're shocked aren't you.

Before leaving Mount Gambier we paid a night time visit to the Umperston Sink Hole, a great big sink hole which has been turned into a garden. Why go at night? Well the possums come out to feed.


They are very cute, very fat and very tame, taking bread from our hands.
We said goodbye to Mount Gambier and hit the road, for what was going to be our longest drive yet.

The road was straight, very long, had no other cars on it and became pretty monotonous. We passed through several towns, Millicent, Beachport, and Robe to Kingston where the Coorong National Park begins. The park, which is a series of lagoons separated from the sea by sand dunes, is about 148 km long. Great, we thought, something to see. But no, there were very few access points and the lagoons were out of sight from the road. The biggest thrill of this whole 380km journey was overtaking another car! I couldn't believe I had spotted a car in front of us and as we got nearer and nearer it became obvious it was driving below the speed limit so I overtook it. Then, after the excitement, we settled in for the next bit.

A gravel road took us finally around to the lagoons and there were thousands of birds, our favourite were the pelicans, great prehistoric looking things.





Finally, having crossed the Murray River on a ferry, we arrived at a pretty little town called Strathalbyn. We stayed there for a couple of nights, just pottering around on Wednesday, watching the school kids have their swimming lessons in a gorgeous outdoor pool, window shopping and joining the South Australia library so we could get wi-fi!

On Thursday we drove through several flat and quite attractive holiday towns such as Goolwa, Port Elliot and Victor Harbor, they have an appeal to a certain section of the population - there are retirement villages everywhere! We made our way to McLaren Vale, one of the major wine growing regions. Our final stop - Glenelg, in a lovely apartment overlooking the sea. We are now only 15 minutes from Adelaide centre.










Jim had a bit of a surreal moment, he walked along the Esplanade towards the Marina, enjoying the sunny evening surrounded by others dressed in a similar way to himself, shorts and T-shirts. He turned onto the main shopping street to be met by the Glenelg Brass Band wearing their thick uniforms, Santa hats and playing Christmas carols.

This morning we saw Santa stuck in a chimney and admired the pretty Christmas tree. Just doesn't seem right does it.






This afternoon we visited Jim's sister Lisa, her husband Andy and their children Mason and Isabelle. They emigrated to Seaford, about 40 minutes outside of Adelaide, in August and have settled in very nicely to the Aussie lifestyle. It was great to see them, they are living in a beautiful house only a street away from the beach. Just perfect for kids.










We were in agreement about many things, why do Australians shorten every word, or put an o on the end. E.g. Moustache, muso, fireman, firo, etc. Why is their telly so crap, and why is their food as far removed from fine dining as you can get?

I may not have mentioned the food here before but it is pretty dire, American style portions, bland, with no spice, and fried. The staples are pepper squid - fried, schnitzels, flattened meat - fried or red meat. Oh and chips with everything! Outside of trendy Melbourne we have noticed there are a lot of 'large' people and loads of adverts about bowel cancer, Australia's biggest killer outside of skin cancer. Hmmm, check your diets mates. However, if you search, and pay, you can find good food. The coffee is fantastic, and I guess, the sun makes up for many things!

Things we like about Australia so far:
Climate
People are friendly
Parks everywhere in the towns and cities
Beautifully clean
Independent shops in small towns are quirky

Things we don't like about Australia so far:
Food
Stereotypical macho Aussie men
Use of expletives and shortening words (even newsreaders)
Internet connection - apparently broadband will arrive in the next 5 - 10 years

We're taking the tram into Adelaide tomorrow. Speak soon.




- Posted by Annie & Jim using BlogPress from THE iPad

Location:Kintore Ave,Adelaide,Australia

Monday, 28 November 2011

The Limestone Coast

Warrnamboll turned out to be a pretty place but the weather over the weekend has been typically end of November - at home! It has been grey, cold and rainy. I even put jeans on, on Friday night. On a pretty cold Saturday morning we visited Tower Hill State Game Reserve which sits inside an extinct volcano.





First job, attempt to run to the top of the volcano rim, I swear sometimes I think I am travelling with a competitive 15 year old. Personally I believe Jim is missing his sparring partners, his sons, and I am a poor substitute. I keep trying to humour him by pretending to be Alex and shouting, 'Run Dad, run.' Anyway the run warmed us up a bit, but because of the grey skies the view was less than exciting. We then set off on an hours walk around the crater, it took us somewhat less than an hour because we were a bit skittish around the low growing trees and long undergrowth - perfect snake territory. We had been warned that copper head and tiger snakes are in abundance, both small, but deadly.

We didn't see any snakes but, rounding a corner, we came face to face with a 6 foot emu! The warden had told us to raise one arm in the air above our head, the emu will think we are a bigger emu and back off. Yeah, right. Jim said, 'Quick, get on my shoulders, it's the only way you're going to be bigger than that!' Frankly, that didn't help. After a stand off lasting about 5 mins (probably only 2 but felt like 5), it shrugged it's shoulders and stalked off.








The photos above are of a Dad emu and babies near the visitor centre, obviously I didn't have time to photograph the other what with shaking and sweating a bit!
On the way out we came across a little family 3 kangaroos, great big scarred Dad, a female and a small baby. The parents very obligingly stopped for a photo.




A 20 minute drive took us to Port Fairy; it was originally called Port Fairy because it was named after the ship carrying the explorers who first discovered it. The person who established the first settlement there named it Belfast after his home city. A few years later residents voted to call it Port Fairy again. Not sure, but anyway, on a sunny day I am sure it looks gorgeous because it is obviously very pretty but on a grey, rainy day with wind whipping off the sea, not so good.

We left Warrnamboll on Sunday morning and made our way, for a couple of hours, through several 'towns', general store, motel, man in overalls next to his enormous 4x4. The land is flat and roads are long and straight. Not very inspiring countryside I'm afraid.


We crossed the state border, finally leaving Victoria and entering South Australia, heading for a place called Mount Gambier which is built over sinkholes and caves that meander through the limestone beneath the town. It is home to the Blue Lake.


We went to see it today (Monday), and it is truly amazing. The rest of the day we have spent caving, looking at mysterious deep pools and extinct volcanoes.





People in the town are really friendly but in the country ...... (see below)






Got a long drive tomorrow, heading in the general direction of Adelaide, probably with some detours en route.

- Posted by Annie & Jim using BlogPress from THE iPad

Location:Morris St,Mt Gambier,Australia