Anyway enough of that, let me take you back to last Friday - a wet Friday - in Prague. I know I told several friends that we had decided not to visit Prague and Berlin for fear of becoming 'citied up' but we changed our minds! Emerging from the super-efficient underground into Wenceslas Square, which isn't a square, we were slightly under awed. Tacky would probably be the word I would use and after the gorgeous Salzburg and Vienna the contrast was huge. We set off, with the crowds, past the bars, strip joints, tat shops, etc to the river where it became a bit more interesting. We made our way across Charles Bridge, with it's statues, 'artists,' classy souvenir and jewellery stalls. We stopped to watch trdelnik, or doughy rings, being rolled out, shaped round metal rings and cooked over a flame. They're coated in flavoured sugar, served hot and are pretty scrummy.
Exploring the 'little quarter,' things became a lot more interesting and as we arrived at Prague Castle just in time to see the changing of the guard, obviously not as grand as at Buckingham Palace, the beauty began to emerge.
We spent some time wandering around the castle complex, including several palaces, gardens, a basilica and cathedral. The best bit was meandering down Golden Lane, where you were meant to buy tickets but Eastern European habits die hard. By palming the man on the gate 100 Czech Krona we were surreptitiously admitted. It all felt a bit underhand!
Golden Lane is a narrow street lined with tiny little colourful cottages, originally built by artillery men who sold them on to artisans and employees of the castle. They were gorgeous and very intriguing. Luckily the sun came out half way down which improved things no end!
Leaving the castle we walked through the palace gardens admiring the architect designed orangery.
On the way back the whole views of the river opened up which were lovely. Taking a detour through a small park outside the Frank Kafka museum, before braving Wenceslas Square again, we chanced upon quirky statues with gyrating hips and lifting peeing penises!! Lovely!
I thought it was an omen for later that night as loads of different stag parties made their way, loudly, through the narrow streets. Now that makes you proud to be British!
Saturday was much brighter and we wanted to visit the Jewish area so back to Wenceslas Square. We went to take a look at the Old Town Square, it was heaving.
Everyone was waiting for the astrological clock to put on a show on the hour.
The little man plays a trumpet and serenades the crowds from each of the four sides of the balcony.
Obviously getting put of the crush was a priority and a quick visit to the English pub was called for.
Eventually we were able to explore the Jewish area, the cemetery is sobering, all the grave stones squashed in together, overcrowding in death as well as in life.
The afternoon was brilliant, walking among the vines, watching an outside wedding and conversing with peacocks.
We decided to forgo the pleasures of mingling with the stag parties and weekend breakers and returned to our hotel.
Prague is very beautiful but it does have one foot in Eastern Europe, there are loads of grey concrete apartment blocks covered in graffiti and a big part of its population look old and defeated. Obviously there has been loads of investment in the country but it seems to us there's a way to go. Mind you 3 nights in a good hotel complete with parking and breakfast cost us £112. Mmmm, wonder why the stag parties insist on coming?
As we left Prague and began our drive to Berlin I did wonder if we'd see more of the same....
- Posted using BlogPress from Annie & Jim's I-pad
Location:Hermannstraße,Berlin,Germany
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