Contrasts in Prague left us confused

We're in our pretty little apartment in Berlin, drinking the last of our Sicilian wine, listening to Chris Evans on line waiting for the jubilee concert to start. I hope everyone is having a great time in Great Ouseburn, enjoying the BBQ and watching the big screen. Watching the flotilla - live - on German telly when we arrived here yesterday gave us our first hint of homesickness! Now, I didn't think we were royalists particularly but there's obviously some invisible pull.

Anyway enough of that, let me take you back to last Friday - a wet Friday - in Prague. I know I told several friends that we had decided not to visit Prague and Berlin for fear of becoming 'citied up' but we changed our minds! Emerging from the super-efficient underground into Wenceslas Square, which isn't a square, we were slightly under awed. Tacky would probably be the word I would use and after the gorgeous Salzburg and Vienna the contrast was huge. We set off, with the crowds, past the bars, strip joints, tat shops, etc to the river where it became a bit more interesting. We made our way across Charles Bridge, with it's statues, 'artists,' classy souvenir and jewellery stalls. We stopped to watch trdelnik, or doughy rings, being rolled out, shaped round metal rings and cooked over a flame. They're coated in flavoured sugar, served hot and are pretty scrummy.


Exploring the 'little quarter,' things became a lot more interesting and as we arrived at Prague Castle just in time to see the changing of the guard, obviously not as grand as at Buckingham Palace, the beauty began to emerge.





We spent some time wandering around the castle complex, including several palaces, gardens, a basilica and cathedral. The best bit was meandering down Golden Lane, where you were meant to buy tickets but Eastern European habits die hard. By palming the man on the gate 100 Czech Krona we were surreptitiously admitted. It all felt a bit underhand!

Golden Lane is a narrow street lined with tiny little colourful cottages, originally built by artillery men who sold them on to artisans and employees of the castle. They were gorgeous and very intriguing. Luckily the sun came out half way down which improved things no end!









Leaving the castle we walked through the palace gardens admiring the architect designed orangery.





On the way back the whole views of the river opened up which were lovely. Taking a detour through a small park outside the Frank Kafka museum, before braving Wenceslas Square again, we chanced upon quirky statues with gyrating hips and lifting peeing penises!! Lovely!


I thought it was an omen for later that night as loads of different stag parties made their way, loudly, through the narrow streets. Now that makes you proud to be British!

Saturday was much brighter and we wanted to visit the Jewish area so back to Wenceslas Square. We went to take a look at the Old Town Square, it was heaving.


Everyone was waiting for the astrological clock to put on a show on the hour.


The little man plays a trumpet and serenades the crowds from each of the four sides of the balcony.


Obviously getting put of the crush was a priority and a quick visit to the English pub was called for.


Eventually we were able to explore the Jewish area, the cemetery is sobering, all the grave stones squashed in together, overcrowding in death as well as in life.


The afternoon was brilliant, walking among the vines, watching an outside wedding and conversing with peacocks.





We decided to forgo the pleasures of mingling with the stag parties and weekend breakers and returned to our hotel.

Prague is very beautiful but it does have one foot in Eastern Europe, there are loads of grey concrete apartment blocks covered in graffiti and a big part of its population look old and defeated. Obviously there has been loads of investment in the country but it seems to us there's a way to go. Mind you 3 nights in a good hotel complete with parking and breakfast cost us £112. Mmmm, wonder why the stag parties insist on coming?

As we left Prague and began our drive to Berlin I did wonder if we'd see more of the same....





- Posted using BlogPress from Annie & Jim's I-pad

Location:Hermannstraße,Berlin,Germany

A Tale of two - Austrian - cities

Arriving in Salzburg in time for a late lunch we decided to try some of the
local fare, baked sheep's milk cheese for me and wurst on sauerkraut for James, washed down with the brew of the region. Very tasty it was too! There was some kind of four day festival going on but we never did quite understand what it was for. The locals obviously saw it as an excuse for dressing up in their dirndl costumes and leiderhosen. They were very colourful but there were a lot of tight laced bodices and heaving bosoms!





There was a lovely eclectic, but slightly upmarket, row of shops/stalls set out along the side of the river where we passed the next hour. The products for sale were gorgeous and I bought some beautiful earrings, a silver band with a piece of amber inset. The finishing touch to go with my linen dress and jacket (from Positano,) handbag (from Sorrento) and shoes (from Bologna!) Jim's lovely niece, Sarah, gets married the first weekend we are back home, hence the purchases.



Monday dawned bright and beautiful and we set off to explore. It was another bank holiday (does Europe have twice as many bank holidays as home?) We passed several pretty special sights...









First stop, the Domkirche, where it appeared to be 'dress up day.' Obviously, a service was about to start. I panicked a bit when the doors were shut, but then saw the centre one had been left open a tad. Suddenly we were unceremoniously pushed to the side and a hush descended. Then organ music started and a parade of ecclesiastical gentlemen of all ages, shapes and sizes began. Incense was swung, rosary beads were dangling and then the Archbishop made his appearance. We were slightly disappointed because, as he reached the altar, a group of musicians, complete with beards and guitars began playing and singing. Everyone swayed.... Oh, oh, we thought, a bit too happy clappy for us!! Then the first hymn began, the words were on big screens around the place, in German, but still... Rather than stay for a 2 hour Catholic mass we quickly slunk out into the sunshine.


We made our way, uphill, and steeply of course, to the Hohensalzburg where we had to take a tour complete with an audio-guide. It was ok, but the best bit was watching a couple of Brits, Londoners of course, who were obviously on a schedule, trying to rush their way round and being prevented from doing so. Classic!


We just managed to get down from the castle when the heavens opened, after cowering under a stone arch for half an hour we made our way back to the hotel, got changed and went back out. We just meandered this time through the narrow streets passing some quirky sights.



Dancing gherkins...


An audience with ....


Salzburg prides itself as a cycling town.

By the way we avoided all things Sound of Music ....

Three and a half hours driving on Tuesday saw us arrive at our indulgent hotel, where we were welcomed with a Bucks fizz, just 10 minutes outside Vienna on the super efficient U-Bahn. Arriving in the city we immediately treated ourselves to a Viennese coffee and a scrummy cake in the Mozart cafe. Don't ask me how I'm ever going to fit into that wedding frock!








Vienna is beyond beautiful, the buildings are grand but not blingy. In Judenplatz there is a really stark, but thought provoking Holocaust memorial made from concrete and the emotive sculpture of a Jewish man kneeling.




That night we ate at a lovely restaurant overlooking the marina close to our hotel - heavy on the meat, but beautiful.

We had a great day on Wednesday, strolling around the great, and not so great, sites such as the Secession and the Belvedere and the Stadtpark overlooking the, not tacky at all, gold statue of Johan Strauss.








That night we went to eat at the Naschmarkt in a fab Thai restaurant and from there to the Musikverein, home of the Vienna Philarmonic. We went to see the Vienna Mozart Orchestra, who performed, along with opera singers, highlights from the Vienna New Year's Concert. We loved it, got drawn in and the time whizzed past. We could have done without the Japanese, 'official photographers' over our shoulders all the way through though!!





We left Vienna very reluctantly. James gave me the address in the Czech Republic to put into the sat nav. At this point I discovered it didn't cover Eastern Europe. How helpful is that!! I nipped back into the hotel and loaded our route into google maps - then we were off. Of course Jim didn't trust them and decided to do his own thing! The countryside was very beautiful and we passed through pretty villages as we made our way through Bohemia. On the outskirts of Prague we got hopelessly lost and ended up in some grim suburb. Then we spotted a Europarc, walked in clutching this trusty I-pad, immediately connected to their server, (how lucky was that,) found google maps again and laboriously wrote down the instructions!

Arriving at our hotel room in the Hotel Excellent, which turned out to be an apartment, we took stock. The hotel had lovely gardens but as soon as we stepped out onto the street we were a bit taken aback by the ugly apartment blocks, the graffiti and the sense of austere Eastern 'europeaness.'

On Friday we took the metro and hit Prague....




- Posted using BlogPress from Annie & Jim's I-pad

Location:Hermannstraße,Berlin,Germany

This is paradise, I don't want to leave

What an amazing week we have had here. It's Saturday night now, just gone 9 and Eurovision is on - in German but still... This is the second year we have watched it, must break the habit next year! As you have probably gathered, lots of these ramblings are written after consumption of alcohol and tonight's is no exception!

This place is absolutely heaven, the walks are amazing, the people are so friendly, we feel like we've been here for ages and Agnes and Claudia have taken us under their wings and have really looked after us.

We visited Innsbruck on Wednesday, a compact little town set in the valley with impressive peaks towering above it and pretty impressive architect designed funicular stations. It was damn hot, the type of heat which drains your energy and signals a storm.





Austrians adorn their houses with lovely pictures or tromp l'oeil. Shop signs are both quirky and gorgeous, designed in cast iron.





After a long day exploring we got back to the apartment to be met by Agnes carrying two plates of delectable chocolate cake. Now it would be rude not to indulge wouldn't it.




Thursday dawned bright and very hot. We set off on our highest, and longest, walk yet. Backpack sorted with: sandwiches, cereal bars, drinks, jumpers and waterproofs. Off we went, up, up, up and up, past the girl with a broken nose who had fallen off her mountain bike and had to be airlifted to hospital.


Past the capercaillie, a very elusive bird which previous guests, ornithologists, came to find but couldn't, a bird which Claudia has never seen, but which we strolled nonchalantly past.


Past the quirky wood carvings along the ski run, complete with recordings of children's voices.


Past the tree houses where bears hide from the wolves, cos everyone knows wolves can't climb ladders.




Past the grass hung on wooden poles to dry.


Higher and higher, past the lake.


Higher and past the tree line.



Up to the Rosskogelhutte where we stopped for a beer, sitting outside admiring the spectacular view. Suddenly black clouds appeared obscuring the mountain tops, then the ski run, then us.... Thunder and lightning quickly followed. There were four cyclists up there and two nordic walkers.


We all quickly made our way inside. A quick conflab, then the picnic was forgotten and we feasted on Kasspatzin mit rostwiebel und salat which is basically macaroni cheese with onions, covered in dried onions and garnished with spring onions. With salad. Very nice it was too! The restaurant owner closed the door, served the beers then followed them up with a free schnapps!





Some time later .....

The sun emerged again, so did we, and we set off, a little further up the mountain.

Eventually we reached the top and were rewarded for our efforts with some beautiful gentians.





Yesterday was THE PERFECT DAY and, for those of you who have been asking, we had our Heidi moment! I forgot to pack my costume and Jim's leiderhosen was a bit reminiscent of Borat so we stuck to shorts and T-shirts! It was a beautiful hot day and we set off to walk around a mountain, rather than up one, through pine woods, glades and meadows full to bursting with flowers.





Insects were chattering, the cuckoo was calling, bees were buzzing and there were clouds of butterflies.


The views were stunning, great big birds of prey hovered overhead.


Water was gurgling, the pine smelt sublime.


All the uphill bits didn't seem so bad!


Our sandwiches hit the spot.


Perfect.


In all honesty I could stay here.

Today we went to a wedding - well we didn't actually go to the wedding but Claudia is in a marching band and they were playing at one of their members wedding, so we went to watch. The church was set on a hill just outside the village, what an idyllic spot.



All good things must come to an end and once again, we've packed. We're heading for Salzburg tomorrow, somewhat reluctantly. Anyway it's 10.30 now and Eurovision is halfway through, can't think anyone will beat Englebert!!

Thanks for continuing to read, see you in Salzburg.

- Posted using BlogPress from Annie & Jim's I-pad

Location:Blasius-Hueber-Weg, Oberperfuss, Austria